DIY Shop Air Cleaner – Free Plans
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After building my shop I soon realized that it was really hard to breathe with all the dust I was making. After coughing up a lung I decided to hurry up and make a DIY Shop Air Cleaner before my lungs get caked with sawdust. This is what I came up with.
It is essentially just a wooden box with a blower motor sucking dirty air through a set of filters and blowing out fresh clean air.
Materials and Tools used:
3/4 – Sheet of 3/4″ Plywood
8×8 Air Register
16x20x1 Air Filter
8″ Inline Duck Fan
Nail Gun Set
Cordless Impact Driver
Countersink Drill Bits
RZ Dust Mask
CAMERA EQUIPMENT USED:
Using the free plans that you downloaded from above, cut out the 3/4″ plywood according to the cut list. I used a hand held circular saw to cross cut the pieces to rough size, then finished them off on the table saw. I like this method because it allows me to break down the pieces to a more manageable size before ripping them to final dimensions on the table saw.
Now that you have all of your pieces cut, it is time to cut out the the circle for the blower fan, cut out the bottom section, and cut out the square for front air register. You can use any tool you have available that can cut through wood but I used my trusty Black and Decker Matrix with the jig saw attachment.
Now it is time to assemble the wooden box. The construction of the box is very simple, I used glue and brad nails to attach the pieces together. Reference the plans and the video above for details on how I do this and hopefully it helps you figure out how to assemble yours.
Attaching the filter frames.
Measure and mark the locations of the filter frames and attach the strips with wood glue and brad nails. Once I have all the frames attached, I then attach the bottom of the box. This piece has a large square cut out that holds the filters in place but also allows full airflow through the filters.
Make it air tight.
Now that most of the box is assembled it is very important to make sure that the intake portion of the box is air tight. Any type of sealant will work for this but you must not skip this step. It is vital that all air being blown out of the discharge of your air cleaner passes through the filters first. If you have gaps or leaks in your box air and dust will get sucked in and re-circulate back into your space.
At this point you should also install your blower fan and make sure that you seal that as well.
Attach the front air Register.
Now you are almost done. There are only a few steps left.
Attach the front piece with the 8″x8″ square cut out of the center to the box using some more wood glue and brad nails.
Insert the air register into the 8″x8″ opening and use the 2 screws that are provided with the register.
Install filters and turn it on.
Not much left to do except popping in the two filters and installing the air cleaner somewhere in your shop.
I hung mine on the ceiling right above my miter saw because that is where the most sawdust is generated in my shop. I have had mine running for a few weeks now and I have to say that having an Air Cleaner makes a huge difference in the air quality in my shop. I am very glad that I took the few hours it took me to build this project.
If you have any questions at all please leave a comment.
Solar Power Generator
Below is the complete list of tools and components I used to build this Solar Power Generator. Click on the links for details and pricing.
Scroll down for the article:
DIY Solar Power Generator – Part 1
What is a solar power generator and why would I build one?
Well, that is a good question and I think I have a good answer.
Typically solar power generators, or any power generator for that matter, are much bigger and used to provide power for homes and other facilities. I built mine on a much smaller scale than the typical power generators not to power my house, but mostly to power small electronic devices like phones, tablets, and speakers. Although this box weighs about 30 pounds, it is still portable enough to take on camping trips or on the boat. This power generator provides 12VDC from its on board batteries, 120VAC from its on board, and uses a 15 watt solar panel to charge the batteries.
The first thing I did to start this project was to design and build a box to house all of the components. I measured all of the components and figured out how I would arrange them in a box and used SketchUp to model and create a cut list.
Once I got my plans and cut list all done, it was time to head out into the wood shop and cut some wood. I don’t want to get into the specifics of how I constructed my box because it was completely based on the components that I used. If you are planning on building one for yourself, you will have to measure and build your box according to what you put in it.
To make a long story short, I cut all the pieces and assembled them as designed.
Once I had the cabinet built it was time to start placing the components inside and wire them up. The three essential components needed to build a solar power generator are:
As you can see from the photos and the videos, I used a few more components than just the essentials because it very very nice and convenient to have several different power source options.
As far as wiring goes it is a lot easier than you might think, especially if you keep it simple. The solar charge controller is well labeled and so are the leads coming from the solar panel. One very important note to remember when wiring your solar charger up is to connect the battery first, then the solar panel. If you connect the solar panel first it could fry your controller.
With the front panel removed the wiring on my solar power generator looks like a rats nest. If you make one for yourself the wiring may and probably will differ from mine but here is the schematic I used to wire up mine.
DIY LED Light – Modern Desktop Mood Lamp with Remote
How to make a pair of Nesting Tables out of a 2×4
I am always looking for an excuse use my power tools so when I was asked to participate in this 2×4 contest by Instructables.com, I was more than happy to oblige. For my submission I wanted to make a piece that required me to transform the 2×4 so that it would be hard to recognize that it was even made out of a 2×4. After doing my research on “2×4 projects”, I also decided that I wanted to create something unique from what was already done. I know there are plenty of 2×4 furniture projects on the internet but I think that my submission is less typical because mine doesn’t look like 2×4 furniture.
I am still new to making how-to’s and documenting my process via video so please bare with me. This was a really fun project for me and I think that you will enjoy it as well. I have attached the Google Sketchup that I used to build these nesting tables. Hopefully with these simple steps and the plans you will make a pair of your own. Enjoy!
GET THE PLANS HERE
Step 1: Cutting 2×4 to Length
When you’re choosing your 2x4s make sure you try to find one with the least amount of knots, it will save you some grief during this process. For this project I would suggest buying 3 decent 2x4s. Using what ever method you prefer, cut the lumber down to the required lengths, I used my table saw and a crosscut sled.
21 1/4″ X 1 QTY
22 1/8″ X 1 QTY
14″ X 1 QTY
12″ X 1 QTY
16″ X 3 QTY
20 1/4″ X 1 QTY
21 1/8″ X 1 QTY
13″ X 1 QTY
8 1/2″ X 1 QTY
15″ X 3 QTY
Step 2: Milling the 2×4 for the frames
Using my table saw I squared off all of the rounded edges of the 2×4 pieces that I cut to length in step 1 by taking off about 1/8″ from each side. Doing this assures that you have a nice square (or rectangle in this case) piece of lumber to work with. Most of the pieces that make up the frame are 1 1/2″ x 1″ except for the bottom frame piece which is 1″ x 1″.
With that said, it is time to rip the newly squared lumber into the final dimensions (1 1/2″ x 1″ and 1″ x 1″. Refer to the plans for exact details).
Step 3: Milling the Lumber for the Nesting Table Tops
For the table tops I used my table saw to re-saw the 2x4s in half so that I was left with 2 pieces roughly 3/4″ thick. To do this I set up my table saw fence to roughly 3/4″ (Slightly less to account for blade kerf) and I raised the blade so that it was slightly greater than 1/2 way through the 2×4. Next, carefully run the lumber through the saw, then flip it over and run it through again to complete the cut. You can see this step in more detail at 0:47 of the video.
Once I had all of the pieces cut, I ran them through my thickness planer, which allowed me to quickly mill them down into even uniform pieces. These planks are going to be glued and laminated together to form the table tops so the more uniform these pieces are the better.
Step 4: Building the Frames
Time to start building the frames now.
I started by drilling pocket holes into either end of the bottom frame 1″ x 1″.
I added a bit of wood glue and I used a clamp to hold this bottom piece to the 2 rear frame posts while I drove a 1 1/2″ kreg pocket hole screw into each side.
Once the back portion of the frame was assembled I proceeded to attach the 2 bottom runners. To do this I applied some wood glue to the ends and attached them with some 16ga 1 1/2″ nails.
Step 5: Attaching the Angled Frame Pieces
For this step I had to make a few special cuts to be able to attach it to the rest of the frame because these pieces are angled.
I adjusted the blade on my table saw to 16 degrees and I cut both ends of this piece so that the angled cuts are parallel to each other.
On one end of the piece I cut out a triangle notch so that the bottom frame sits about 5/16″ inside the angled post to provide a better bond and more stability.
Then, like the rest of the assembly, I add some wood glue and attach with some more 16ga 1 1/2″ nails.
Step 6: Making the Table Tops
For this step I selected enough pieces to accommodate the final dimensions of the table top. For the larger table top I used 6 pieces and for the smaller table top I used 5. You just want to make sure that you have enough material so that you can trim the panel to the final dimensions after the glue up.
I took the 3/4″ pieces that I milled and laminated them together by laying them flat on some bar clamps.
Rotate all of the pieces except for the first piece up 90 degrees and group them together.
Apply glue to the sides of all pieces and spread out the glue so that it covers the whole surface area evenly.
Next rotate the pieces back down and arrange them so that they are as even as possible.
Proceed to tighten down the clamps to apply slow and even pressure.
Depending on the size piece you are laminating you should use about 1 clamp every 6 inches. In this project I used a total of 4 clamps, 2 on the bottom and 2 on the top.
wipe off any excess glue squeeze out with a damp rag and set aside to dry over night.
Once dried, I took the two panels to my table saw and used my cross cut sled to trim the pieces to the desired dimensions. (Large – 16″x15″ , Small – 15″x11.5″)
Now it is time for sanding. I used a belt sander with 80 grit paper to knock down all of the rough edges. After the table top is somewhat smooth, I switched to an orbital sander with 120 grit paper then on to 220 grit to make sure the table top is as smooth as possible. (Be patient)
Then I wrapped a sanding sponge with 320 grit sand paper and knocked down all of the sides and corners to smooth them out a bit
Please refer to the video at point 2:50 for details on this procedure.
Step 7: Sanding the Frame
Not much to explain here other than this:
I used an orbital sander, my mouse sander (Smaller and triangular shape which is easy to get into corners with), and a sanding sponge.
I started with 120 grit and moved up to 220 then finally 320 grit. 120 on my orbital sander, 220 on y mouse sander, and 320 wrapped around a sanding sponge.
Just sand all surfaces until the frame is smooth and all blemishes are gone.
Step 8: Attaching the Table Tops
Just like the Frame assembly, I used glue and nails to attach the table tops.
On both tables, the back and the sides are mounted flush with the legs of the table.
On the front of each table, the angled legs are attached so that the table tops are over hanging about 6 inches from the outside of the leg.
You can see this in greater detail in the 2 sketchup photos above.
I applied some wood glue to the top of each leg and aligned the table top as mentioned above.
Once aligned, I used a nail gun and shot about three 18ga 1 1/2″ nails into each leg from the top of the table top.
Step 9: Finishing Touches
Phew! Almost done!
Now that both tables are assembled, it is time for finishing.
This is my favorite part of any build because I can see the fruits of my labor come to fruition.
All that is left to do now is:
Fill all of the nail holes with some wood putty.
Sand down the wood putty
Apply the finish of your choice. In my case I used a spray on primer and a high gloss white paint.
If you use a stain instead of paint, you should probably apply a coat or two of a protective shellac or something similar.